Kimono and Cultural Appropriation: What the Runways Say

At almost every Fashion Week, a kimono-inspired silhouette sparks debate. For some it is a tribute to a thousand-year-old craft; for others, cultural appropriation. But beyond the viral controversies, what do the runways really say — and what do the people most concerned, the Japanese, actually think? This article untangles the history, the controversies and the best practices for wearing a kimono with respect and good judgment.

The kimono: origins and cultural meaning

You cannot talk about the cultural appropriation of the kimono without first understanding what it represents. The word itself literally means "thing to wear". Far from being a merely decorative garment, the kimono is an object steeped in history, codes and emotion.

A living history, not a costume

The kimono's roots go back more than a thousand years, and its current form was largely settled during the Edo period (17th–19th century). Built from assembled rectangular pieces of fabric, it wraps the body rather than following its curves — a philosophy radically different from Western tailoring. Even today, it accompanies the great moments of Japanese life: weddings, tea ceremonies, seasonal festivals, graduation ceremonies and New Year.

The symbolism of patterns, colors and seasons

In a kimono, nothing is left to chance. The pattern, the color, the length of the sleeves and the way the sash (obi) is tied all tell a precise story. This is especially true of the floral kimono, where each flower carries its own symbolism.

• The seasons: cherry blossom in spring, red maples in autumn, waves and dragonflies in summer. Wearing the right pattern at the right time is a mark of sensitivity.
• Status and occasion: the furisode, with its very long sleeves, is reserved for young unmarried women; the uchikake, richly embroidered, is a wedding garment.
• Colors: they carry meanings (luck, mourning, understated elegance) that vary with context.

The kimono in Japan today

While most Japanese people dress in Western clothes day to day, the kimono has not disappeared: it is reinventing itself. Young designers, kimono rentals in the historic districts of Kyoto, modern-inspired weddings… The tradition is very much alive, in constant dialogue with contemporary fashion. The long kimono is a fine example, at once faithful to its heritage and resolutely current. It is precisely this vitality that makes the question of appropriation so delicate: the kimono is not a frozen relic, but a culture in motion.

Cultural appropriation or appreciation: what are we really talking about?

The term "cultural appropriation" is often used, sometimes wrongly. To have a useful debate, we first need clear definitions.

Defining cultural appropriation

We speak of cultural appropriation when an element of one culture (often a minority or dominated one) is taken up by another culture (often a dominant one) without understanding its meaning, without crediting its origin, and sometimes for profit, to the point of reducing it to a cliché or a costume. The problem, then, is not borrowing in itself — every culture draws inspiration from others — but the way it is done.

Tribute, inspiration, appropriation: where is the line?

The line between respectful appreciation and problematic appropriation comes down to a few simple criteria: intention, knowledge, the credit given to the source culture, and respect for context. The table below sums up these differences.

Why is the debate so heated in fashion?

Fashion amplifies the question because it is highly visible, highly commercial and very fast. A runway show or a brand launch can reach millions of people in a matter of hours. When a traditional garment becomes a product sold on a large scale, without credit or understanding, the sense of dispossession can be very real — especially on social media, where criticism spreads instantly.

The kimono on the runways: a long history of influence

The kimono has inspired Western fashion for over a century. It is a history of fascinating exchanges back and forth between East and West.

Japonisme, the first great Western borrowing

In the second half of the 19th century, after Japan reopened to trade, a real craze for all things Japanese swept across Europe: this was japonisme. Ukiyo-e prints influenced painters such as Monet, Degas and Van Gogh. In fashion, European women first adopted the kimono as a garment to relax in at home, before designers in Paris and Lyon took up its fabrics and lines. Its straight, flowing cut shook up the corset and the hourglass silhouette that had dominated until then.

When Japanese designers conquered Paris

The major turning point came from Japanese designers themselves. In the 1970s, Kenzo Takada and Hanae Mori made their mark in Paris. Then, in the early 1980s, Issey Miyake, Rei Kawakubo (Comme des Garçons) and Yohji Yamamoto caused a seismic shift: rather than exoticizing Japan, they reinvented the very foundations of Western fashion. Drawing on the flat, rectangular structure of the kimono, they offered loose, asymmetric, deconstructed garments that envelop the body instead of molding it. This approach, baffling to critics at first, lastingly transformed global fashion.

Western fashion houses and the kimono

From Yves Saint Laurent to contemporary brands, many Western designers have drawn on the shape, drape or patterns of the kimono. When that inspiration comes with knowledge and respect, it continues a legitimate creative dialogue. When it is reduced to a superficial "kimono effect", with no reference to its culture of origin, critics are quick to point to appropriation. Here are a few key milestones in this long history.

The controversies that marked fashion

Two cases have become textbook examples. They shine a light on exactly what is at stake in the debate.

"Kimono Wednesdays" at the Boston museum (2015)

Claude Monet, La Japonaise, 1876.

In the summer of 2015, the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston invited visitors to try on a replica of the kimono worn by Monet's wife in the famous painting La Japonaise, then photograph themselves in front of the work. An important detail: this replica had been made by Japanese artisans, and the activity had been warmly received when it was shown in Japan. In the United States, however, the initiative triggered protests denouncing "orientalism" and cultural appropriation. The museum eventually stopped letting people wear the kimonos, which were only displayed thereafter. Notably, counter-protesters — including Japanese women — came to defend the activity, arguing that sharing the kimono was nothing to be offended by. The affair shows just how far from unanimous the debate is, even within the community concerned.

The Kim Kardashian affair and the "Kimono" brand (2019)

In June 2019, Kim Kardashian announced the launch of a shapewear brand named "Kimono", registering the name as a trademark. The reaction was immediate: under the hashtag #KimOhNo, many people criticized her for privatizing the name of a traditional garment for a product with no connection to Japanese culture. The mayor of Kyoto even sent her an open letter, pointing out that the kimono belongs to Japan's heritage and should not be monopolized. A few weeks later, Kim Kardashian renamed her brand "Skims". The episode remains one of the most frequently cited examples of commercial appropriation… and of a swift U-turn in the face of criticism.

What these controversies really teach us

Neither of these cases pits "wearing a kimono" against "not wearing one". They point to something else: the lack of context, the absence of credit, and the purely commercial use of a cultural symbol. The problem was not the garment, but the way it was used. It is an essential distinction: sincere appreciation is generally welcomed; thoughtless appropriation rarely is.

What do the Japanese really say?

This is probably the most misunderstood point in the whole debate. Contrary to what some Western controversies suggest, Japanese opinion is far from uniformly hostile.

Between pride and concern

Many Japanese people take pride in seeing their culture shine around the world. Concern arises mainly in two cases: when the kimono is mocked or reduced to a cliché, and when it is exploited commercially with no acknowledgment of its origin. The distinction, then, is about respect — not about who is wearing it.

"Kimono for everyone": a culture that opens up

Many voices in Japan actually encourage foreigners to wear the kimono. Enthusiast associations, rental shops in Kyoto and artisans see it as a precious way to pass on and keep this tradition alive. A video that went viral, in which a Japanese man answers "whenever you like" to the question of when foreigners can wear a kimono, neatly captures this spirit of openness. The message, in short: wear it — but wear it well.

Wearing a kimono with respect: the practical guide

Good news: wearing a kimono or a Japanese-inspired garment is not a problem in itself. It is all about attitude. Here is how to do it right.

Best practices

• Do your research on the history and symbolism of what you are wearing: to understand is already to respect.
• Wear it correctly: left side over the right (the reverse is reserved for the deceased), with the sash neatly tied.
• Suit the occasion: an elegant kimono is not a costume; wear it as a genuine part of your wardrobe.
• Value craftsmanship: choose quality, durable pieces that pay tribute to the original know-how.
• Talk about it accurately: name the Japanese inspiration rather than erasing it.

Mistakes to avoid

• Reducing the kimono to an "exotic" accessory for a themed party.
• Associating the garment with stereotypes or caricatured clichés about Japan.
• Wearing it the wrong way round or carelessly, with no attention to its meaning.
• Erasing its cultural origin entirely, as if it were a Western invention.

Supporting artisans and creativity

Perhaps the most respectful way to appreciate the kimono is to support those who keep it alive and reinvent it: artisans, designers and brands that work with respect for this heritage. Choosing pieces made with care, durable and faithful to the spirit of the garment, means placing your love of the kimono within an approach of appreciation rather than appropriation.

The modern kimono, between tradition and freedom

Today's kimono no longer belongs to the past alone: it lives, travels and reinvents itself. Worn open over jeans, turned into a lightweight kimono jacket or used as inspiration for a contemporary wardrobe, it continues to charm far beyond Japan. This circulation is not a threat to tradition; it is its natural continuation, as long as we keep in mind where it comes from. The most beautiful cross-cultural fashion is the kind that celebrates a culture rather than erasing it.

Conclusion

So what do the runways really say? That the kimono has fascinated the world for over a century, and that this fascination can be magnificent… or clumsy. The line between appropriation and cultural appreciation does not depend on who wears the garment, but on how they wear it: with knowledge rather than ignorance, with credit rather than erasure, with respect rather than caricature. Wearing a kimono can be a genuine tribute to a refined way of life. All it takes is to do it with heart as much as with style.